This morning I received a letter from the Minister at the Department for Business, Enterprise and Regulatory Reform via my MP. Text (almost full but removed some personal information) follows, then some commentary.
Dear Geoffrey,
Thank you for your letter of 20 February enclosing correspondence from Mr Joe Turner about the employment status of homeworkers. I apologise for the delay in replying.
The Low Pay Commission, the independent body who advise the Government on National Minimum Wage issues, made a recommendation in their 2008 report that the Government should take stock and evaluate whether the fair piece rates arrangement is meeting its objectives. As a result of this recommendation, officials are focussing on what we can do to help homeworkers this year. This will include a publicity campaign aimed at making homeworkers better informed of their rights - not just on NMW but also looking at other areas as part of the Government's Vulnerable Workers campaign. We are also looking at what we can do to improve enforcement in this area.
Your consitutent rightly points out that the National Group on Homeworking (NGH) closed during November 2008. I believe the NGH carried out a very useful role, which is why BERR helped fund its activities for a number of years. The funding was originally used to help the NGH combat scams and later to part fund a case worker to help homeworkers assert their rights.
As I am sure Mr Turner will appreciate, it is impossible for a government department to meet all the funding requests it receives. However, the homeworkers can still access other sources of help and advice such as ACAS.
Yours sincerely
Pat McFadden
So our country can find ways to support some of the biggest industries, cannot prevent the overpayment of excessive pensions and spends millions holding a G20 conference of world leaders, but has not got the spare change to support the most vulnerable workers in the UK. Pat, you need to rearrange your prejudices. Homeworkers are not stupid. They are aware that it is illegal for employers to pay less than the minimum piecerate wage. They know that they are being exploited.
As you have just illustrated above, your department has withdrawn payment for one of the only case workers working full time with homeworkers and your plan involves an increased publicity campaign. I can tell you now that publicity is not going to work. If you are a vulnerable, exploited worker and the only work you have pays less than the minimum wage, what are you supposed to do? Complain and loose the only income you have? Go to ACAS?!?
That is the most ridiculous thing I have heard in a very long time.
You really do not have a clue.
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The UK government recently released their Sustainable Clothing Action Plan, see here (pdf file).
Together with analysis of the problem, which we broadly agree with, the plan tasks stakeholders to engage in various activities to make a difference.
Those involved include the rather wonderfully titled Centre for Remanufacturing and Reuse who are looking into the reuse of workwear and the marvellous Worn Again who are going to set up the 'UK's first' (actually it isn't but never mind) upcycling and downcycling factory to produce clothing at home. Great. We are really encouraged that this work has been completed and that so many of the people we admire are involved. Sadly, Nike, Marks and Spenser's (sic), Sainsbury's, Tesco and the Ethical Trading Initiative are also involved. It feels a little like asking Mr Madoff to run the Bank of England. These are the people who have caused the problem. These are the companies responsible for the sea of waste materials, the wasted lives and the environmental problems. These are the voluntary opt-in schemes which have recently been shown to be flawed and full of holes.
Jamie Burdett, Director of Worn Again, in a conversation about this said to me
"sustainability needs many forms and no one solution has the answer, brands are vital as are bottom-up initiatives. All are valid and needed."
Note, this was on twitter where brevity is a necessity.
But I don't think we agree. The changes we want to see are not something that can be imposed from above by government or the multinationals. Those lusting after the cheapest clothing will not be prepared to make the changes we need to see because they will not appear to be profitable. Factories in the UK exist. Nobody needs to 'set up a new upcycling facility'. I could take you to any number of UK clothing factories which are sorely needing work or have recently closed. The issue is not the lack of material, lack of facilities or lack of skills. The issue is largely lack of a market. Something big brands will never be able to address due to their high overheads and profit-centred business model.
So no, brands are not as vital as bottom-up initiatives. Indeed, brands cannot and will not make the changes necessary. Hence fine sounding government policies like this are destined to fail.
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